Cook’s notes
The fish
We’re salmon lovers in the family. But why salmon collar and belly? The head and belly are, for me, the best parts of the fish. In regions where they are considered offal, you can buy them cheaply. In places like the Philippines where they are delicacies, they command a premium price. A neighbor used to sell salmon portions in one-kilo packs at a very good price. Way fresher and cheaper than market prices. You may use other firm and fleshy fish for this soup if salmon is not your thing. You don’t even have to limit yourself to fish collar and belly. But, since you need the fish bones to make a flavorful broth, I do not recommend fish fillets for this dish.The vegetables
What does semi-ripe papaya mean? Is it different from green papaya? Yes. Semi-ripe papaya is softer but still firm enough to withstand boiling. It is also sweeter than green papaya but has not reached the level of sweetness of fully ripe papaya. You only want the flesh so you have to cut off the skin and scrape off the seeds and white pith at the center.
Can green papaya be substituted? Sure! The broth will not taste the same but it should still be good. But because green papaya needs a longer time to cook to tenderness, you may have to cook it ahead of the fish. A seven to ten-minute headstart should ne sufficient.
Now, about the malunggay. You want only the leaves and tender stalks. Strip off the leaves from the woodly stems. Just hold the tip of the woody stem with one hand, then pinch the stem lightly near the top with the forefinger and thumb of your other hand. Slide your fingers down the length of the stem to separate the leaves and tender stalks from the thick woody portion.
Galangal is not ginger, but…
What is galangal? It’s a root vegetable. We bought a bag of dried galangal in Thailand and we just rehydrate enough for every dish that requires it.
Galangal is not ginger and, in Southeast Asian cooking, the two are not interchangeable. But this is not a traditional Southeast Asian dish so we can have more wiggle room here. If you can’t find galangal, go ahead and use ginger.
The lemongrass stalk is used whole here. Just lightly pound the bottom portion then tie up before adding to the pot.
For more about shallots and how they different from regular onions, see “Scallion, spring onion, leek and shallot: how to differentiate“.Salmon, papaya and moringa (malunggay) leaves soup
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon cooking oil
- 2 shallots peeled and thinly sliced
- 4 cloves garlic peeled and crushed
- 4 to 5 slices galangal
- 1 large stalk lemongrass (or two medium ones) lightly pounded and tied into a knot
- fish sauce
- 1 kilogram salmon (2.2 pounds) cleaned, gutted and cut into portions
- 1 medium papaya (green or semi-ripe peeled), deseeded and cut into one-inch cubes
- 2 to 3 cups malunggay leaves stripped from the stems
Instructions
- Heat the cooking oil in a large pot.
- Saute the shallots, garlic and galangal until aromatic.
- Pour in six cups water and add the lemongrass.
- Stir in two tablespoons of fish sauce.
- Bring to the boil, cover and simmer for ten minutes.
- Drop in the salmon portions and the cubed papaya, and bring to the boil once more. Lower the heat, cover and simmer for ten minutes.
- Add the malunggay leaves, cover and simmer for another five minutes.
- Taste the broth and add more fish sauce, if needed.
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